On travel
As you may have discovered if you tried to schedule a date with me this month, I’ve been enjoying further-flung flings in Japan for most of November. After my first visit there last year, I immediately began plotting my return, and thanks to a couple of co-conspirators, I didn’t have to wait too long. Enclosed is a non-exhaustive list of things I did, along with a plea to take me back again very soon.
I ate.
I know everyone waxes lyrical about the food in Japan, but who am I to buck the trend? Almost everything you eat is wonderful, whether tonkatsu in the basement of Tokyo Station or destination restaurants in Ginza. Highlights included Sushi Yoshitake, Kabi, Équisse, Ippo, Unagi Hashimoto, and Tajima. I also ate exponentially more pizza this visit (I blame a cheese craving), which was unexpectedly good. I rated Pizza Strada, Frey’s, and Sabasu.
I drank.
Probably a little more than I should have, but hey, that’s Tokyo. This trip included many misspent hours in tiny little listening bars and izakayas (Deathmatch in Hell, Ayano’s, Bar Composition, Bar BPM to name a few). Thanks must go to the bartenders for their patience with my Google Translated song requests and bad jokes. Other favourites included Wine Bar Yamaneko for its wine list and beautiful female sommelier, Pigalle for its craft beer, Tavern Pachimon Wars in Osaka for its huge collection of unlicensed Star Wars memorabilia, and The SG Club for wildly creative cocktails.
I hit the sack.
The Aman Tokyo was as exquisite as I imagined, as was contemporary ryokan The Hoshinoya. When I wasn’t in Ginza, I stayed in Setagaya, at the extremely charming Onsen Ryokan Yuen Bettei Tokyo Daita. I loved this neighbourhood, and would highly recommend it if you want something a little calmer but still close to the action.
I bathed.
The onsen is taken very seriously in Japan, where cleanliness is next to godliness. My extensive bathing excursions included more plush surroundings such as The Hoshinoya’s extraordinary chimney-style rooftop tub (which is open all night, and I recommend after an evening bar hopping) and expansive municipal offerings such as Thermae-Yu, Spa World in Osaka (as a Michael Crichton fan, I had to), Setouchi Onsen Tamanoyu in Uno Port, and the rooftop baths at Haneda Airport (yes, I arrived extremely early for my flight home). After all this research, I concluded that I prefer the latter approach for their distinctly Japanese quality of highly managed relaxation. They also always have a boisterous panel show playing in the sauna. Elle Voss and I spent a sweltering 15 minutes attempting to decode the objectives of one once and were none the wiser. Go, sweat, plunge, and revel in the communal nudity.
I looked at cool stuff.
In Tokyo, this included an excellent Louise Bourgeois exhibit at the Mori Museum (which comes with an extraordinary view of the city) and a sprawling retrospective of Keiichi Tanaami at the National Art Centre. I returned to the Japan Folk Craft Museum, which is a deeply beautiful, serene space with a small but perfect collection. Additionally, its gift shop is the stuff of dreams, and all loved ones should standby for items from here for Christmas. In Osaka, I was blown away by Chiharu Shiota’s NAKKA show, I to Eye. Last but not least, I went to the DT Suzuki Museum in Kanagawa, which commemorates the like of Buddhist philosopher Suzuki. It’s as tranquil a space as you’ll ever experience, although I did have to marvel at people’s relentless commitment to taking selfies in the contemplation room.
I took the train.
As an unabashed train nerd, getting around Japan is a total joy. Sure, Tokyo is great, but considering how good the rail network is, escaping the city is also recommended. Just ensure you leave enough time to decode the opaque ticketing system (what is a base fare?, Can you use an IC card?, How does the non-reserved carriage function?) and pick up an ekiben.
I went to the Art Islands.
These are in the Seto Sea, and feature a cluster of islands filled with art installations, galleries, museums, and architectural masterpieces. They make for a fun trip, but please, learn from my mistakes; A lapse of judgement meant I hadn’t quite got around to booking any gallery slots T-12 hours before I was due to arrive. This is enough to bring you out in a cold sweat in Japan, where booking ahead is as imperative as not eating in the street. Cue a frantic, multi-screen frenzy, in which I tabulated ferry times between the 3 islands, the last few remaining visitors slots, and Google Maps cycling timings. Happily, I pulled it off.*
As with most things in life, the main event - Naoshima Island, the largest one - was a bit underwhelming. The Tadao Ando architecture (he designed 5 of the island’s galleries) is far and away the best thing you’ll see. I did like the James Turrell and Walter De Maria pieces at the Chichu Museum. The real showstopper is found on Inujima Island, at a former Copper Refinery reimagined by Hiroshi Sambuichi and Yukinori Yanagi (I advise not looking at any pictures before you go for the full effect). On Teshima Island, I also loved The Teshima Art Museum and Yukoo House.
I tried to buy shoes.
Unsuccessfully. You can buy almost anything in the entire world in Tokyo, but you cannot find a UK size 7.
ありがとう日本、毎秒楽しかった
*said the actress to the Bishop